Mar 30 Crossing the Date Line
Mar 30 Crossing the Date Line
If
you are following closely, you will note we have no record of March 29. Overnight, we crossed the international date
line. Note how it scoots around groups
of islands, but American Samoa and Independent Samoa, while only 137 miles
apart, are on either side of the date line and so 24 hours apart.
Our
new location is Apia on the independent island of Samoa, Upolu. We took an island tour on a nice, small air-conditioned bus that was quite comfortable. It was noted that they drive on the right. The tour guide told us it is because most
cars are imported from New Zealand or Australia, which also drive on the right. Samoa gained independence from New Zealand in
1962.
Our
first stop was Mulivai Catholic Cathedral.
It was built around 1800 but has a more modern design than European cathedrals, with clean yet very impressive lines.
The interior is just as impressive.
The
next stop was the home of Robert Louis Stevenson, which is now a museum. Stevenson moved to Samoa from Scotland towards
the last seven years of his writing life to enjoy the climate. He had the building constructed to his own
specifications, including fireplaces that were never needed in this climate. The house style looks quite similar to a plantation style to me and is very extensive, with tropical gardens. Stevenson
wrote 33 books, novels, essays, and travel books, the last seven in this home. He died at 44 years old.
He
wrote this poem to be placed at his burial site near his home.
In Samoa, they only bury the dead within the island, and there are no cremations.
The visit brought back memories of my fifth-grade English teacher, whom I feared for his strict manner. To his credit, he
ended each lesson with a few pages from the great book Treasure Island, by
Robert Louis Stevenson. He read each
day with great theatrical expression, conveying the story with wonderful emotion.
The population of Samoa is 200k, most of whom live on the two main islands, Upolu and Savai'i. During the 2009 Tsunami, many
villagers died.
Our
third stop was the Malifa cultural village demo. We were again treated to local singing and
dancing during a karva ceremony, followed by an impressive fire dance and the chance to eat some local fruits. Just as
it ended, another downpour descended. Fortunately,
we had been seated under a canvas cover.
We waited a little while, but it was clear it was going to rain for an
extended period, so we popped up our brollies and ran back to our little bus.
Our
final stop was a supermarket.
We arrived at a covered market that was massive and had clothing, local
crafts, and jewelry, plus daily fruits and vegetables.
We
returned to the ship and dashed up the gangplank to dry off in our
stateroom. A very enjoyable visit and we
are starting to get used to the heavy showers this season is providing.
Apr
1
We arrived in Vava’u, one of 171 islands in the country of Tonga, but most of the 100,000 population live on three main islands. The ship was
anchored 15 minutes from shore, and we took the tender. Again, dancers greeted us.
Awaiting
for us was a fleet of small busses, all taking the same tour, but the stops
were all in a different order so they were not crowded.
1st
stop a town square with locked gates containing a small obelisk to celebrate
independence from Britan in 1917.
The
2nd stop was an overlook for a photo stop.
We had to climb 171 steep steps, some over 12” risers, to get to the
platform, to the top of Mount Tatau, but the view was worth it.
The
third stop was also a lookout photo stop at the other end of the island. No steps this time but a wonderful view of
the Ocean and bay. By now, we were
exhausted from the heat, but the locals provided a nice assortment of local
fruits as a snack.
The
third stop was a modest catholic church.
The
forth stop was a cave “Veimumuni Cave” full of freshwater from an unknown
origin, full of mysterious folklore and history. We had to go through some contortions to get
into and out of the cave.
The
last stop was a vanilla plantation where we could see vanilla growing. It needs a host bush to support it and
provide shade. It must be hand pollinated
and will only grow in a place with little wind and filtered sunlight.
All the buses finally returned to the ship's tender at about the same time, so we had to wait 30 minutes for our turn to return to the ship, hot and exhausted. We
enjoyed the sail away into the sunset.
The ship had to weave its way around and between the island with no apparent
pilot on board and no navigation buoys to guide us.
Apr 3 seaday
In
the morning, we found out we have been approved for a four-day land tour safari
with only limited spaces available once we arrive in Africa. In the afternoon, all world cruisers were
invited at short notice to a meeting with the ship's officers to explain the new itinerary and the options for guests who do not want to travel around
Africa. All complicated stuff, but it
does not affect us as we are happy with the new itinerary.
Apr
3
We
continue our tropical island hopping by visiting Fiji at the port of Suva on
the island of Viti Levu, the largest and capital city of Fiji. Today is Good Friday, so many of the shops and
businesses are closed. It is common for
men to wear skirts. Fiji was under
British rule from 1874 to 1970 who developed the island and built the infrastructure. They have been an independent nation since
1970 as a member of the British Commonwealth. The morning was a lovely
sunny day with mostly clear skies for a change but our guide told us it is
still the monsoon season.
We
stopped at an overlook of the bay of Nosory.
There
are 333 islands within Fiji, within Melanesia, with coral reefs; most are
uninhabited. From 1930 to 1960, leprosy
was out of control, and 1/3 of the population died. It is now leprosy-free. 30% of Fiji’s income comes from tourism. Kava is a traditional Fijian drink made from
the yaqona plant's roots, ground, mixed with water, and strained into a
murky, earthy brew. It looks like muddy water, tastes kind of bitter and
peppery—like dirt mixed with cough syrup—with a weird, slimy texture. But the
real hook? It numbs your tongue and lips right away, like a mild anesthetic,
then chills you out: relaxed body, clear head, no hangover. Folks say it’s like
alcohol without the fuzziness—just calm vibes and good chat.
We
stopped at the main gate of the State House, whose ceremonial guard wears the
dress uniform.
The
main island has a protected rainforest. It is still considered a 3rd world country. It is compared to the Big Island of Hawaii. Fiji’s population is 950k with a minimum wage of $2.50 US. The flight to New Zealand is 3 hours.
Our
main stop was the Fiji Museum, which displays historical artifacts and stories about its customs.
The
usual rainstorm came through as we visited the museum and enjoyed the local
island fruits. The bus had to drive right up to the steps, so we did not
get soaked.
On
the way back to the ship, we stopped in the shopping district of Suva, dodging
the heavy showers, then we needed to make a dash for the gangplank back at the
ship.
Apr 4 Seaday
Check back next Sunday
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